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In this collection, the Raf Simons menswear — always his strength — looked good and so did the streamlined tailoring for women, such as a trouser suit in Prince of Wales check with a modern shaping and a purposeful attitude. While in the recent past, the shows had seemed almost irrelevant to the progress of image and sales. As a show, it was very commercial. Simons brought the Calvin cut into the new millennium with plastic encasing tailored coats and dresses; it was sometimes streamlined and glamorous, but often reminiscent of Helmut Lang, especially when wafting feathers were trapped inside the transparent plastic. This would seem an impossible task to achieve in the first six months, but it has the promise of a wide commercial platform. Now Raf and Pieter Mulier hold a strategic position to direct all the CK products including the high-earning fragrance and underwear.

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But in this era of female force in America, when a disappointed community of women has given an aggressive response to their new President, the idea of the tailored suit, so beloved by Hillary Clinton, is not a foolish offering.

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#SuzyNYFW: At Calvin Klein, Raf Simons Puts America First

But that was then, when Calvin was a design lion in the s, before grunge and the ugly aesthetic and other fashion disruptions. But it is hard to make clothes mean something — and I think he did. One of those dangling decorations included a bra — which I deciphered as a reference to the worldwide success of Calvin Klein underwear and to the infamous claim by a young Brooke Shields in Bright colour-blocking appeared from the deep blue shirt shown with ruby red trousers at the start, to shades of yellow, orange and of purple — say in the arms of knitted sleeves, while the front was of barely veiled transparency. But oh, yes — it was!

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